Tuesday, September 4, 2018

Mumbai Foodie Memories – Café Samovar

More than 40 years ago – in the 1970’s – during my early Navy Days – two of our nearest (and favourite) foodie places were Café Samovar in the Jehangir Art Gallery and The Wayside Inn at the corner of Rampart Row (now called K Dubash Marg)– both located in Kalaghoda in Mumbai (then known as Bombay). 

Luckily – both the ships I was appointed on in my bachelor days were based at Mumbai – where the Navy had a rather laissez-faire culture as compared to other Naval Stations. 

The moment you stepped out of Naval Dockyard – you were in the best neighbourhood in the heart of the city.     

So – when our ships were in harbour – we would step of the dockyard – walk down Rampart Row – have a bite at Café Samovar or The Wayside Inn – maybe – we would listen to some music records in those quaint music booths in Rhythm House – and then – maybe – we would head out to paint the town red.

(Someone told me that all these three iconic institutions – Café Samovar, The Wayside Inn and Rhythm House – have since closed down) 

I still remember my Bachelor Navy Days of the 1970’s in Mumbai – the best time of my life. 

Some moments ago – I was reading one of my stories set in Café Samovar – A Lazy Hot Afternoon in Mumbai – and this evoked nostalgic Mumbai Foodie memories. 

So – Dear Reader – here is a memoir on Café Samovar 

Café Samovar
Relaxed Eating in Arty Ambience
Mouthwatering Mumbai Memories
By
VIKRAM KARVE

When I was a small boy I traveled all over India by train  and I remember the fabulous Dining and Restaurant Cars on famous trains like The Calcutta Mail via Nagpur, The Frontier Mail, The Grand Trunk Express – and my all time favourite  The Deccan Queen – where one could sit comfortably and enjoy leisurely meals comprising the choicest “Railway Cuisine” – whilst viewing the picturesque countryside scenery passing by through the large open windows.

Each train had its own special à la carte dishes apart from the ubiquitous “thalis”. 

One cannot enjoy this luxury anymore  as the railways have replaced Dining Cars with Pantry Cars and now-a-days they serve lackluster insipid “standard” meals packed in foil, paper and plastic containers.

On a hot sweaty summer afternoon  as I walk with my friend near Kalaghoda in Mumbai  I feel nostalgic – and my mouth waters – as I recall the good old railway dining car lunches  and I am in a mood for a relaxed lunch in arty ambiance. 

So  I convince my friend – and we head for Café Samovar at the Jehangir Art Gallery at Kala Ghoda near the Museum. 

Though not an Al Fresco Café – Samovar is styled like a Parisian Café.

Café Samovar is situated next to the art gallery in a long rectangular veranda and resembles a Railway Restaurant Car of yesteryear. 

We relax on the cane chairs and enjoy the view of the adjoining Museum lawns.

There is a menu card  but the specialties of the day are scribbled on blackboards on both ends of the no-frills eatery. 

We order the specialties of the day – a Mutton Chilly Fry Lunch and Hyderabadi Kheema with Lachi Paratha. 

The tender boneless Mutton Chilly Fry well cooked in a thick dark brown sauce has a nice spicy peppery taste and blends well with the Garlic Bread and fresh salad. 

The fiery orange-red chilli-sour Hyderabadi Kheema (spiced fried mince meat) is lip-smackingly zesty  the Paratha is super-soft and fluffy  and the combination is delicious.

Next – we have the wholesome stuffed parathas (a Vegetarian Gobi (Cauliflower) Paratha and a Non-Veg Kheema Paratha) accompanied by their appetizing chutneys followed by Kheema and Kebab Rolls. 
 
To cool off  we end with the huge soothing Dahi Wadas. 

I am tempted to order a biryani or a prawn pulao, but we’re nicely satiated and overeating will spoil everything – maybe we will try the rice dishes next time.

Café Samovar has a unique charm and friendly ambience you won’t find anywhere else. 

It serves excellent value-for-money food and is an ideal place for a cozy tête-à-tête with a friend over a leisurely lunch on a lazy hot afternoon in Mumbai.

(Dear Reader  I wrote this more than 12 years ago (in the year 2006) when I last visited Café Samovar. I understand that Café Samovar shut down 3 years ago in the year 2015...)  

VIKRAM KARVE
Copyright © Vikram Karve 
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Disclaimer:
This story is a work of fiction. Events, Places, Settings and Incidents narrated in the story are a figment of my imagination. The characters do not exist and are purely imaginary. Any resemblance to persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Copyright © Vikram Karve (all rights reserved)

Link to my source post in my Blog Academic and Creative Writing Journal Vikram Karve: http://karvediat.blogspot.com/2012/05/eating-out-in-mumbai-samovar.html

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