Tuesday, September 4, 2018

Mumbai Foodie Memories – Café Samovar

More than 40 years ago – in the 1970’s – during my early Navy Days – two of our nearest (and favourite) foodie places were Café Samovar in the Jehangir Art Gallery and The Wayside Inn at the corner of Rampart Row (now called K Dubash Marg)– both located in Kalaghoda in Mumbai (then known as Bombay). 

Luckily – both the ships I was appointed on in my bachelor days were based at Mumbai – where the Navy had a rather laissez-faire culture as compared to other Naval Stations. 

The moment you stepped out of Naval Dockyard – you were in the best neighbourhood in the heart of the city.     

So – when our ships were in harbour – we would step of the dockyard – walk down Rampart Row – have a bite at Café Samovar or The Wayside Inn – maybe – we would listen to some music records in those quaint music booths in Rhythm House – and then – maybe – we would head out to paint the town red.

(Someone told me that all these three iconic institutions – Café Samovar, The Wayside Inn and Rhythm House – have since closed down) 

I still remember my Bachelor Navy Days of the 1970’s in Mumbai – the best time of my life. 

Some moments ago – I was reading one of my stories set in Café Samovar – A Lazy Hot Afternoon in Mumbai – and this evoked nostalgic Mumbai Foodie memories. 

So – Dear Reader – here is a memoir on Café Samovar 

Café Samovar
Relaxed Eating in Arty Ambience
Mouthwatering Mumbai Memories
By
VIKRAM KARVE

When I was a small boy I traveled all over India by train  and I remember the fabulous Dining and Restaurant Cars on famous trains like The Calcutta Mail via Nagpur, The Frontier Mail, The Grand Trunk Express – and my all time favourite  The Deccan Queen – where one could sit comfortably and enjoy leisurely meals comprising the choicest “Railway Cuisine” – whilst viewing the picturesque countryside scenery passing by through the large open windows.

Each train had its own special à la carte dishes apart from the ubiquitous “thalis”. 

One cannot enjoy this luxury anymore  as the railways have replaced Dining Cars with Pantry Cars and now-a-days they serve lackluster insipid “standard” meals packed in foil, paper and plastic containers.

On a hot sweaty summer afternoon  as I walk with my friend near Kalaghoda in Mumbai  I feel nostalgic – and my mouth waters – as I recall the good old railway dining car lunches  and I am in a mood for a relaxed lunch in arty ambiance. 

So  I convince my friend – and we head for Café Samovar at the Jehangir Art Gallery at Kala Ghoda near the Museum. 

Though not an Al Fresco Café – Samovar is styled like a Parisian Café.

Café Samovar is situated next to the art gallery in a long rectangular veranda and resembles a Railway Restaurant Car of yesteryear. 

We relax on the cane chairs and enjoy the view of the adjoining Museum lawns.

There is a menu card  but the specialties of the day are scribbled on blackboards on both ends of the no-frills eatery. 

We order the specialties of the day – a Mutton Chilly Fry Lunch and Hyderabadi Kheema with Lachi Paratha. 

The tender boneless Mutton Chilly Fry well cooked in a thick dark brown sauce has a nice spicy peppery taste and blends well with the Garlic Bread and fresh salad. 

The fiery orange-red chilli-sour Hyderabadi Kheema (spiced fried mince meat) is lip-smackingly zesty  the Paratha is super-soft and fluffy  and the combination is delicious.

Next – we have the wholesome stuffed parathas (a Vegetarian Gobi (Cauliflower) Paratha and a Non-Veg Kheema Paratha) accompanied by their appetizing chutneys followed by Kheema and Kebab Rolls. 
 
To cool off  we end with the huge soothing Dahi Wadas. 

I am tempted to order a biryani or a prawn pulao, but we’re nicely satiated and overeating will spoil everything – maybe we will try the rice dishes next time.

Café Samovar has a unique charm and friendly ambience you won’t find anywhere else. 

It serves excellent value-for-money food and is an ideal place for a cozy tête-à-tête with a friend over a leisurely lunch on a lazy hot afternoon in Mumbai.

(Dear Reader  I wrote this more than 12 years ago (in the year 2006) when I last visited Café Samovar. I understand that Café Samovar shut down 3 years ago in the year 2015...)  

VIKRAM KARVE
Copyright © Vikram Karve 
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Disclaimer:
This story is a work of fiction. Events, Places, Settings and Incidents narrated in the story are a figment of my imagination. The characters do not exist and are purely imaginary. Any resemblance to persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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No part of this Blog may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Blog Author Vikram Karve who holds the copyright.

Copyright © Vikram Karve (all rights reserved)

Link to my source post in my Blog Academic and Creative Writing Journal Vikram Karve: http://karvediat.blogspot.com/2012/05/eating-out-in-mumbai-samovar.html

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